Seething Freshwater Sardines
Seething Freshwater Sardines
The first recreation of the Seething
Freshwater Sardine Festival was a great
success. Starting on the banks of the
Thames nearly 100 people gathered in
the rain to watch our brave fisherman
haul in the first catch of Freshwater
Sardines for over 170 years. From there
a procession led by the four giant guinea
pigs of Seething led the crowd to St
Andrews Square where a BBQ and
entertainment took place and more
Seething visitors joined in the fun and
heritage.
The Background
From as early as 1532 there are records
of great catches of freshwater sardines
at Seething. The River Thames at that time
was a bountiful source of food and the
position of Seething on an elbow of the river
led to it being a natural home for a rich
variety of fish. Records from the London
Museum of Rivers shows that the most
plentiful species from the 16th to mid
19th century was the freshwater sardine
or Escualosa thoracata tethys.
Before talcum mining came to the area
much of Seething’s wealth came from
sardine fishing or ‘Ardines’ as they were
locally known. Fleets of ‘Chueners’, as
the Seething fishing boats were called,
were moored around what is now
Raven’s Ait but what was originally
called ‘Ardines Bait’.
At the height of the industry there were
over 50 Chueners with their classic blue
‘fins’ or sails registered to local families.
The great fortune of the local community
in being granted sole access to the
fishing by deed of rights meant that
Seething became the centre for the
supply of freshwater sardines to the
great kitchens and houses of London
and beyond. Indeed it is written that they
were George the lll’s favourite food until
his madness when it is said he could
never see a sardine without weeping.
Such was the demand for the freshest
sardines that one of the first rail lines
was constructed to nearby Surbiton and
known locally as the ‘Sardine Line’. It is
interesting to note that the expression
‘packed like sardines’ is still used for an
overcrowded train today and in an early
morning and evening Seething villagers
still create the ‘packed train’ in memory
of the industry.
April tended to be the start of the season for freshwater sardine fishing and the ‘Huers’ would position themselves alongside the banks to sport the first ‘Sets’ of sardines making their way up river. The Huers familiar cry would signal to the village that fishing could commence and the boats would be launched. It was oft said that the Ardines only natural enemy was the ‘Blue Finned Chuener’.
On the first day of fishing the catch would be brought back to the village on the ‘great cart’ for the Seething Sardine Festival. Here the fish would be barbequed by the best cooks in the village and shared amongst all present. Villagers would make their own piquant dish or ‘salsa’ to have with the fish and a prize was awarded annually for the best accompaniment. The prize was presented during an elaborate Sardine Salsa dance that mimicked the movement of the ‘sets’ in the water.
Unfortunately the dirtying of the Thames by the introduction of human waste and later by factory outpour killed off the freshwater sardine in the mid to latter part of the 19th century. In the last year of fishing just three sardines were caught. This sadness was captured in one of the town’s Coat of Arms.
In 2005 the freshwater sardine was reintroduced by Maples to the Thames at Seething and the Seething Sardine Farm is now exporting cans to the Mediterranean where it is highly valued for its unique flavour.
Importantly some sardines that have escaped from the farms nets appear to have repopulated some of the river and it is hoped that on Sunday 5th May a single boat will fish and hopefully its catch, however meagre, will be used in a recreation of the great Seething Sardine Festivals of old
Early representation of freshwater sardine fishing in Seething (Seething Museum collection)
Preparing for freshwater sardine fishing in Seething. Note the Chueners in the background
(London Museum of Rivers collection)
Classic Seething nine sardine barbeque
Freshwater Seething tin from the new Maple Road cannery
Sunday 5th May 2013